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When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.